Sunday, November 29, 2009

Designers I Respect: Olivier Theyskens

Well, that title might provokes a lot of reaction. Pleas bear in mind that I have a lot of respects for other designers as well, here in Indonesia, the famous ones in Paris, Milan, and New York, and also other young designers in a lot of other countries, climbing their ladder of fame.

I guess this is just the kind of post to show my respect to the designers that have inspired me, and which I am a big fan of.

One of the earliest memory of a designer that made me fall in love was Olivier Theyskens, who back then was working for Rochas.

Olivier Theyskens and Anna Wintour

His first collection that I saw was Rochas Spring 2005 (which means it was probably late 2004). And I have never heard his name before (or even Rochas for that matter), being a small town boy that I was.
Back then, I was shallow enough not to do research, so I'm only used to the style of Giorgio Armani, Versace, Christian Dior, Gucci, or Chanel, because they were the big player. But it was Theyskens that made me "discover" these other historical labels that were not only apparently have stronger designs, but also back then, shaped the face of fashion!

Olivier Theyskens for Rochas brought something that didn't exist in my book before, elegance and luxury without over-designing and over embellished, which quite honestly even most Indonesian designers still can't do without.
This was the look that blew my mind:


It was elegant yet simple, it was feminine yet with strong silhouette, something completely new for me. And then and there I thought... This is how one should design an evening gown!

In Fall 2005 collection Theyskens taught me something else... Something that he was known for:
Demi-couture and poetry in design:

The most gorgeous dress of the season I think. He's so creative and so poetic. How he can stir the emotion of the people watching his show (I couldn't imagine what would it do to the person wearing it!) is totally amazing! Brilliant!

But then, after his show for Rochas Fall 2006, a news broke in that Olivier Theyskens is leaving Rochas. I was left heartbroken. I remembered exactly when I read the news in my apartment in Beijing. But the sad news followed with a pleasant surprise that he's joining Nina Ricci!! Couldn't find a better fit for the house!

Lars Nilsson's shoes were big to fill, but somehow, Theyskens made even more of an impact at Ricci than he ever did at Rochas. His debut collection was an ethereal poetry in motion, moving Nina Ricci up to the list of the fashion house to watch that season. Not to mention he's now aiming for a younger market, but not to loose that couture quality.


His other collection for Nina Ricci that needed to be noted was Fall 2008. Literally was one of the strongest shows in the world that season. And directing the color trend of that season, which was an amazing thing for a fashion designer to make such an influence. I would describe it as Autumn leaves colors.


But sad news struck again. News broke in that Fall 2009 would've been Theyskens last season at the house of Nina Ricci. Another short tenure for him. Well he proved that the management would now just bite the dust with his last collection that was the most amazing, ferocious, strong, elegant, and out of this world! Creating clothes that were sensational, as well as accessories that were in everyone's mouth that season:

I am so sorry, but that shoe is f*cking awesome!

I haven't heard of Theyskens anymore since he's left Nina Ricci. But I'm sure he's out there somewhere, getting offers from major Haute Couture houses to kick ass yet again.

And until then, I heart you Theyskens!


(pictures from style.com and jakandjil.com)

Thursday, November 26, 2009

The Entire Collection of SeaM


Well finally!!! Here are the entire 24 outfits of SeaM's latest collection for Spring 2010, showcased during the Jakarta Fashion Week.
Available in 2010...

Enjoy...

Beauty.. In the Eyes of the Beholder...

Models, backstage at Chloe


During fashion month, it's easy to find beautiful models parading the catwalk with their gorgeous skin tone and beautiful make up.
...
But let's face it, it's a bit boring to see beautiful people again and again and again.
So kudos to the designers and make up artists who try different approach to doing hair and make up for fashion shows, cause at the end of the day, it's all about total look.

Vampire chic at Givenchy.

Tribal Goth at Rodarte by James Kaliardos

Lolita RULE at Prada!

Louis Vuitton was having a kitten heel moment, in replacement for the height, adding about 10 inches on top of the model's head.

At John Galliano it was provoking color extravaganza.

At Marc Jacobs, Francois Nars did his very best as the face painter.

Alexander McQueen's creepy sea creatures are perfected with undeniably the most provocative make up this season by his close collaborator, make up artist Peter Philips.

(pictures by style.com)




Monday, November 23, 2009

Enjoy Summer... in White


So, people have been asking what's the color of the season for Spring 2010. Well, surprisingly, most designers open their shows with white! Considering that white is actually not a color, it means that everyone looks good in white!
Summer dressing and white, perfect combination! Nothing says relaxing on the beach like these summery white pieces! A shirt dress by Bottega might even make it to the office too! Givenchy offers a slightly more couture touches in their option of white dress. D&G's lingerie inspired is sexy yet relaxed. Etro's bohemian touch makes me fall in love all over again. Offering something other than a dress is Pheobe Philo for Celine, with a wrap shirt. But whether you're going for micro mini (@ Christopher Kane), or maxi (like Halston), white is always the perfect summer
color!
from left-right (Bottega Veneta, Celine, Donna Karan, BCBG, Christopher Kane, Halston, Givenchy, Alberta Ferreti, D&G, Chloe, Etro)
photos by style.com


SeaM loves white! For sure! In our recent collection we use a LOT of white, and by a LOT, I mean A L-O -T.
Come in two selection of fabric, super lightweight cotton and silk chiffon, we love lightness and we love white!
By the way, our collection for Tracy Boutique in Bali will also contain a lot of white! so watch out!

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Black Leather = New Cashmere?



Black leather is the new cashmere! It's absolutely everywhere from Alexander Wang in New York to Balmain in Paris, from punk in Rick Owens to lady like in Gucci, from avant-garde in McQueen to chic simple in Celine, black leather is the absolute essential this spring.
Wear it anyway you like, real, synthetic, nobody cares anymore! Whether it's a jacket, pants, dress, jumpsuits, even just a slight detail, designers love leather for spring!
My favorite look is Balenciaga's head to toe leather, super chic and yet bold.

from left-right (Balmain, Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander McQueen, Celine, Rick Owens, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Gucci, Rodarte, YSL, Alexander Wang)
photos from style.com


SeaM embrace the whole leather trend in this leather dress. Tres chic!

Trousers are HOT

Trousers are definitely hot for spring.
Proven that the designers love adding them to their collection
From Marc Jacobs to Balenciaga, from slouchy to really skinny, trousers are hot!
My favorite look is definitely Proenza Schouler (in the midle).
But whatever your style is, trousers are perfect for summer!
Left-right (Marc Jacobs, YSL, Lanvin, Bottega Veneta, Chloe, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, Balmain, Givenchy, Versace, Balenciaga)
images from style.com



A look for SeaM's collection, an alternative of trousers for spring! Enjoy!

Friday, November 20, 2009

SeaM presents LOVE KILLS


SeaM a collaboration between myself, Yosafat and Krista Rompas.
We just launched our latest collection on Jakarta Fashion Week
and we're so damn proud of it.

For inquiries:
seam.inquiries@gmail.com

Get it while stock lasts... lol...

RIP Daul Kim




RIP
Daul Kim (1989-2009)


The last day 0f Jakarta Fashion Week 2009, was followed this morning by a sad news of the passing of young model Daul Kim. I heard it on twitter, and though I didn't know her, seeing her face on runways, ad-campaigns, or Chanel's podcast, I couldn't help but liking her...

May her soul rest in peace.
(photos from style.com)



i love fashion...
but i love life more...